Here is the process of making a Bobber from a Kawasaki Vulcan 800A 1995. I will try to show you and explain the process of transformation. This is the first time I am doing this, so be indulgent. I am learning everyday, and this is what life is all about right!
First thing, I changed the oil, coolant fluid, lubed all the cables, clutch and throttle. I put a new battery in, tried to start it and it won’t start! I knew I needed to clean the carb, I ordered a Haynes manual to see what I had to take off to access the carb… I couldn’t wait for the manual to arrive so here we go, I took the gas tank off, and then I found the way to get that carb. I opened it after watching a bunch of video on You Tube about carb cleaning, where I learned a little bit. So I started to clean the needle and the jet, the bowl where the float stays was cover with a brown varnish color. I cleaned everything gently with carb cleaner, put everything back together, put the carb back on the bike, put the gas tank with new fresh gas and some sea-foam, and turn the ignition and she fired right away. How cool is that, I was so happy, I took it for a ride, she is awesome, a lot of power, yes remember I never ride a motorcycle before so yes it is powerful.
Also I didn’t have any air filter, the one who were install was too old and the foam was falling apart, but the bike was running great without air filter just the cover on and that was it. Then I decided to take apart the front headlight, I had an extension with two more headlight, they were not working and for my bobber project I knew that had to go.
After a couple of try I felt some misfires from the rear cylinder, need a new plug probably, I orderde NGK CRE7 on Ebay.
Next step was taking the exhaust pipe to paint the end with a flat black and wrap them, and I discover the back pipe was installed without gasket!! I went to a store and ask for HD Screaming Eagle gasket, perfect fit.
I realized after that wrapping the pipe that I celebrated too much, and the job with the wrapping was not as good as it should be. I use Stainless Steel zip tie to hold the wrap.
I brushed the chrome, I don’t like when it is too shiny, and I prefer the brush aluminum look. So I did brush the chrome part on the headlight too and painted the housing with epoxy paint.
I get rid of the turning light in the same time, and install the new bullet style (that I brushed too) on the side of the radiator. I built a metal bracket for those. Here before and after scotch-brite.
I received my new spark plugs CRE7, the one who were in were CRE8, they were still in good shape. The rear one was blacker than the front. I kept them just in case, if someone have any clue why CRE8?? I also received my K&N air filter. I had to take the carb apart again because I was not able to pull the choke, I didn’t clean this part because I didn’t have the book at this time.
I found a 16” front wheel on Ebay, I cleaned it in a bath of apple cider vinegar, it works pretty well. Then sand with 400 grit, 2 coat of self-etching primer and high gloss epoxy from Rust Oleum.
Tires were next, I ordered 2 Shinko E270 500-16 with 2 tubes. I am exciting to install the first one on that front wheel. I will have to get something like a tire balancer and get some black weight. I also need to get an axle from 800 Classic, yes they are not the same, the spacer are different. I am thinking changing my fork seal, paint the fork and both triple tree, add some rubber boots to add a vintage look
I also got a new chain, the actual one had a bit of rust, it was time to change it.
This morning I put the tire on a rim, I can tell this is a P.I.T.A.!!! I scratched the rim that I just painted….. I will have to sand again and apply a new coat of paint. This time I use the trick with cards I saw on the blog “Her Majesty’s Thunder” (http://hermajestysthunder.blogspot.com/2011/04/diy-painting-motorcycle-rims-on-cheap.html).
The result is awesome, I love it, a real retro look.
Yesterday I took apart the fork, I discovered the oil seal was rusty on both side and a washer was eaten by the rust, it was not in the right place! Someone messed with it. When I empty the oil, I could see the difference in color between both side, one was black when the other side was purple.
Lower fork tube painted.
I use the lower fork tube as a balancer, and it turns out pretty well to me.
Painted the triple tree.
I take the rear wheel apart, and try to take the old tire from the rim, not easy at all…. I finally have to use a jig saw. Then a good clean, sand and paint.
I received the axle from the Vulcan Classic, and it does not fit!!! of course the axle is bigger which means I need some lower fork tube from a Classic…..
I installed the new chain, I am waiting for the new shoe brake to reassemble the rear wheel.
I found the solution for the blinker, they were blinking to fast with the new bullet I got. My guess is everything is a question of load, the original bulb was a 23w/8w and the bulb in the bullet is a 23w/6w. when I replaced the one in the bullet by the original bulb (too big) it worked fine. I just need to find some bulb with the same wattage who can fit in the bullet.
I also got my 2 shock boots, they are looking really good, perfect size, I am sure I will not have any problem with rusty washer in the fork!
I had to order some lower fork to fit the new axle. Of course I saw on the Vulcan forum that I could just change the bearing between the 21′ wheel and the 16′ and it will work fine!!! Too late, live and learn! But when I received them I realized than the front disc bracket does not fit the lower fork tube from a classic… AAARRGHH!!
Thanks to the Vulcan Forum where I go to find some solution all the time and “Wolf The Russian” with the threads he posted about the Vulcan like “Scooterize”, they are really great, there is a big Vulcan community I guess, and you can find answer to your question on those forum, thanks to all of you who posted and showed your modifications.
So now here we go, after changing the chain, installing the rear blinkers, put everything back together. As you can see I cut out the original seat, I was able to do a test drive. You can also see the license plate holder, Hugh help me with the welding, he did a great job, and for sure it is not going anywhere.
I like the look with the fat front tire, getting closer. I think the previous owner did some work on the EPA, a good thing. I ordered a bigger K&N air filter and some chrome door trim and I will Scooterize the breather.
I had some trouble doing the test drive, only the front cylinder was firing. After doing some research online, Wolf said that a lot of people put a different spark-plug in the rear cylinder like NGK CRE6 (different heat range), and they don’t have to complain anymore with the fouled plug or misfiring.
Next step Scooterize.
Happy New Year!
Yep January 1st, and finally I did the “Scooterize” job, it looks really good to me. I followed the instruction and it is easy to do with a Dremel. The chrome trim help for the finish. I like the K&N filter it gives a mean look. I also had to put an air filter on the crankcase.
I got a new main jet, the one I had, was a 130 and I needed a 165. The pilot jet is a 50, which is what Wolf recommand. I had to do some test drive and adjust the mixture screw, 2 & 1/2 turns. The needle is an aftermarket with the clip int he third notch from the top with 2 washers on top.
Now she is really powerful when WOT. I also changed the rear plug for a NGK CRE6.
I built my seat pan from a 16 gauge metal sheet. Put 3 layers of yoga mattress and some leather. It is comfortable and I didn’t put the spring yet.
I am happy how it turns, for the first seat, not too bad. I had to go to a welding shop to have the bolt weld before installing the yoga mattress.
Here is some pics of the plate under the seat to hide the battery and electronic, I know it doe not look good, too big, we’ll see…
Here is some pics of the breather after Scooterize.
Looks Good.. I got a new handlebar yesterday, I am going to reinstall everything on it and see if it looks ok. I think the handlebar is maybe too low and need higher riser…
I find a Sportster gas tank for cheap, a little scratch and dent but nothing major. I am going to strip the paint and try to do the paint job myself.
I will have to get an other seat, this 16 gauge metal sheet is too thin for my 220 pounds! I can feel the seat bending while driving..
I didn’t do much on the bike since last time, just busy with work. But I did changed the gas tank, After trying to paint it 3 times and not being happy with the result, I decided to keep it raw metal. I just put a clear coat on it from rattle can.
But this clear coat is of course not gas spill proof!!! The clear melted on contact with gas!
I missed the big gas tank for his mileage, the Sporster one have a range of 66 miles while approximately 120 miles with the original gas tank.
I worked on the bike slowly but surely, the weather here in Florida started to be real hot, and in my little garage it is very HOT…
I removed the blinker, and removed the electronic from the handlebar, I went for just a push start button under the seat.
I did a new paint job on the gas tank, I use some silver leaf.
I change the rear sprocket for a 39 teeth, I had to cut 2 link on the chain with an angle grinder. I also painted the chain guard.
I finally got a MIG welder and did my first weld with the Biltwell hinge to the frame.
I put a new seat, this time I used 10 gauge, put 4 layers of yoga mattress, but still not comfy enough.
Still no rear fender! I started to think I should make one with fiberglass. I’d like the kind with a duck tail but they are expensive. Still thinking about it.
I put 2 scissor spring for the seat, I bought them from La Rosa, DON’T DO THE SAME MISTAKE!!! One broke, I know I am 6’3 with 230 lbs but still… I will probably order some from Lowbrow this time.
Done with the fender, paint and strud are done, thanks to Lowbrow to make it easy with all the part. New Biltwell handlebar, new grip.
Still have to work on the seat, it is too high, so I need to clean what is under.
So here is some pics:
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Thanks for watching
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